You can sum up the European facial care market in two words: simplicity and efficacy. They are the primary drivers within the category, reflecting polarizing trends for multi-functionality and multi-step regimes. The alphabet trend is still in full swing, with BB and CC creams part of most big brand portfolios, although a strong focus on cosmeceutical-style products is creating opportunities for innovative single function products.

In 2014, the European facial skin care market was expected to post 2.7% growth to top $17.2 billion, according to Datamonitor. For the past two years, Russia has been the fastest growing European market, up 7.9% and way ahead of Spain, which appears to be on the road to recovery post-recession with a 3.3% increase. Russia has recorded above-average growth across all the main product sectors. Meanwhile, the dominant European skin care markets, France ($3.7 billion) and Germany ($3.0 billion), posted more modest gains of 2.6% and 1.1%, respectively.

Daily Wear
Facial skin care is part of most European women’s daily routines, with 82% using some kind of combination of cleanser, toner and moisturizer, according to Kantar Worldpanel. Enthusiasm for daily facial skin care usage is highest among Russian women (86%), while Italian and Spanish women are slightly less keen (at 78% respectively). Twice-daily cleansing and moisturizing is the norm for most European women at 14.6 times per week, and is slightly lower among Italian (11.9) and Spanish (12.4) women and highest among Russians (17.3).

An area offering considerable growth opportunity is male skin care due to the low penetration among European men. Just more than a quarter of European men have a regular skin care regimen, rising to 33% of German men. However, European men tend to use skin care just once a day, suggesting that the category has some way to go before reaching maturity.  

Wash-Off Cleansers
Facial washes/scrubs are used by 38% of European women and are even more popular in Russia (58%) and Italy (49%). Wipes are used by a third of UK women, but this cleansing method has not caught on in France (12%) or Russia (12%). Spanish women still favor the traditional wipe-off cleanser format (19%), which has very low take-up among the Germans (6%) and French (8%).
Elemis, a leading luxury British spa and skin care brand, promotes the use of cream cleanser on the grounds that the more the product is massaged into the skin, the more it loosens dirt and grime for the ultimate cleanse. This year, Elemis has brought out a new sensory twist to its Pro-Radiance Cream Cleanser, consisting of cedarwood combined with bergamot and neroli to uplift, calm and balance the senses.

Multi-Functional vs. Multi-Step
With disposable incomes squeezed as a result of the recession, one of the main beneficiaries has been alphabet skin care products, offering a cost effective and convenient beauty solution.

“Additionally, today’s modern consumer is seeking to simplify their beauty routines, a factor which has led to the explosion of multifunctional products on the market today, most notably the alphabet trend,” commented Jamie Mills, associate analyst, Datamonitor.

Its research shows that the simplicity of using a single product has been the biggest benefit of multifunctional beauty products. However, the general perception is that this simplicity comes at the cost of efficacy, placing more pressure on brands to focus on effective product benefits. 

At the other end of the spectrum there has been a growing interest in cosmeceuticals featuring clinically inspired ingredients claiming to offer superior results. The focus is on both skin care and ‘cure’ and mimic treatments seen within the cosmetic surgery space.

“The efficacy driven approach to skin care is leading consumers to single function and multi-step cosmeceuticals with the perception that these products are less diluted in terms of their benefit,” stated Mills.

Recent product introductions include the UK launch of L’Oréal Skin Perfection Anti-Fatigue Perk-Up Cream, which specifically targets symptoms of skin fatigue, and Dermacol’s HT 3D Hyaluron Therapy Wrinkle Filler Night Cream, launched in the Czech Republic, which specifically targets wrinkles and has a complementary day cream that highlights the need
for a multi-step regime.

Key Claims
According to Kantar Worldpanel, the anti-aging claim is sought by 34% of European women when choosing a moisturizer. This coincides with an increase in anti-aging claims in European skin care launches recorded by Mintel in its global new products database, along with claims for brightening/illuminating, antioxidant, paraben-free, botanical/herbal and vitamin/mineral fortified.

The trend for brightening/illuminating formulations is no longer restricted to moisturizers, but is a claim appearing in other products, such as eye gels and primers. Crème de la Mer’s Illuminating Eye Gel is a multitasking product that contains the famous “Miracle Broth” along with an illuminating mix consisting of brown algae to brighten and soothe, and mineralized algae to help soothe, strengthen and protect the delicate eye area. Sea pearls have been incorporated to refract light.

Kenzo’s Kenzoki Cream with a Sheen is a hybrid primer that is sheer and hydrating, while offering luminosity and visual blurring. Meanwhile, the Tom Ford Illuminating Primer has a blue-pearl base to negate redness and creates a “flashbulb” effect when used under foundation.

Algae extracts are a key ingredient trend seen by Mintel in European launches during the past year. These include Hypnea musciformis extract, which is an extract of the red algae and present in Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Sculpting/Refinishing Dual Infusion and Lab Series Skincare for Men Treat Age Rescue + Ginseng Water-Charged Gel Cream. Another algae extract is Undaria pinnatifida, or Alariaceae, found in Ericson Laboratoire GenXskin E975 Aquagen Rejuvenating Cleansing Lotion.

Argan oil continues to be extremely popular in skin care launches according to Mintel, which confirms that products containing organic argan oil represented more than a quarter (27%) of European launches in 2014. Two examples from Germany are Nivea Pure & Natural Anti-Rides Night Cream and Douglas Naturals Face Serum.

Facial skin care is a vibrant category in Europe with plenty of promising and innovative new products aimed at satisfying the needs of consumers looking for quick fixes or more substantial skin care solutions.

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Imogen Matthews
Headington, Oxford UK
Tel: +44 1865 764918

Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher focusing on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles. Every year in April, she publishes The Premium Market Report, focusing on trends in the UK premium beauty markets.
www.thepremiummarketreport.com